Machu Picchu & Tambopata Amazon

A late-afternoon landing and a straight run into Miraflores, the district Lima built along the cliff edge above the Pacific. The clifftop is a chain of parks the length of the neighborhood, with paragliders working the updraft off the face. The evening is open on purpose: time at sea level before Cusco, two miles higher, makes the altitude much easier.

Overnight: Hotel in Lima

A guided day through Lima's historic center, laid out by Pizarro in 1535 and run as the capital of Spanish South America for the next two hundred years. Then the Larco Museum and its five thousand years of Peruvian gold, ceramics and textiles. The evening is the Magic Water Circuit, where the fountains in the old city park run to music after dark.

Overnight: Hotel in Lima · Meals: Breakfast

Cusco sits at 11,150 feet, so the first few hours are yours to settle in and the sightseeing waits until afternoon. It starts at Qorikancha, where the Spanish built a church straight onto the Temple of the Sun, then climbs to Sacsayhuaman, the fortress above the old capital, with the whole city open below. Last is the little lookout fort at Puka Pukara, out where the road turns down toward the Sacred Valley.

Overnight: Hotel in Cusco · Meals: Breakfast

A full day down into the Sacred Valley, which runs lower and warmer than Cusco. The morning is Pisac, market stalls filling the square and Inca terraces curving around the hillside above it. Then the stone stairs at Ollantaytambo, the one place the Inca turned back Spanish cavalry, by flooding the plain below the fortress. Back in Cusco by evening.

Overnight: Hotel in Cusco · Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

A self-guided climb, on whichever of the two peaks your dates allow. Huayna Picchu is the peak standing behind the ruins in every photograph of them: a steep hour of Inca stairs to 8,920 ft, looking straight down on the city. Machu Picchu Mountain is the longer, steadier climb to 10,111 ft, with the whole valley below. The afternoon is the train back to Cusco, running up the valley beside the river most of the way.

Overnight: Hotel in Cusco · Meals: Breakfast

A morning flight crosses the eastern Andes and drops to Puerto Maldonado, 600 feet up and a different climate. The road out of town runs as far as the river, and the rest of the way in is by boat, upstream, to a lodge the Ese'eja community of Infierno built and runs on its own land. Rooms open on one side straight into the forest, with no glass between you and it. The afternoon is the canopy tower, 130 feet of staircase to a platform above the treetops, and you come back down in the dark, slowly, for the frogs.

Overnight: Posada Amazonas · Meals: Breakfast, Dinner

Tres Chimbadas is an oxbow lake, a bend the Tambopata cut off and left as still water, and you cross it early on a paddled catamaran. A family of giant river otters fishes it, and about six visitors in ten see them. The afternoon is Centro Ñape, where the community grows the plants it still treats people with, and a walk to the kapok tree standing above the canopy behind the lodge.

Overnight: Posada Amazonas · Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

An early run to the clay lick, where parrots and parakeets come down to a seam of river clay for the sodium the forest leaves them short of, watched from a blind close enough to hear them. Then the boat down with the current and the road into Puerto Maldonado for the flight out.

Meals: Breakfast